I have just found out that the locals in the bar overlooking the square where I parked in old town are still talking about us. We were staying in a lovely 4 story patio house, so typical of the Andalucía / Arab style. The neighbourhood is really authentic and on Thursdays, when we arrived, they have a small Camden-style market where alternative folk come in to sell all manner of second hand gear.
I was insistent that we wouldn’t be dragging bags over cobbled streets, so I squeezed my 4 x 4 gas guzzler into the square during market day – naturally no one else was driving in the area, but TomTom hadn’t factored in the second hand book stall, rail of second hand dresses or the antique mirrors crowding the streets. The woman looking after the spaces was great, she was wearing a second hand flamenco dress, pulled over her jeans and managed to guide me into a space that appeared slightly smaller than the car itself, whilst smoking some hashish, swigging on a litre bottle of Cruz Campo and knocking out a rhythm with her castanets – oh and she was also pushing off a stray dog at the time.
Here’s the short piece I did in Sur newspaper.( View article) Suffice to say, if you get a chance to go and have an introduction to a few people there, then it can be a brilliant experience. I also went back to the fancy EME Hotel by the cathedral.
They haven’t really taken care of it, but it still is the coolest place to have cocktails and we spent almost a complete afternoon the roof terrace with its privileged view of the centre, without all the bustle.Also, in the centre, just off Plaza San Francisco, we discovered a great little tapas place, Puracepa. It’s a little like the high quality, designer tapas brand from Dani Garcia, La Moraga, but without the attitude. Wonderful dishes and the team were really helpful suggesting wines – always a good way to spend a late lunch!