The ‘Silver Route’ is one of Europe’s early trading and pilgrimage ways, linking the Bay of Biscay in the north with the mighty Guadalquivir river in the south. This historic way threads together some of Europe’s most beautiful cities, pearls in the architectural and cultural history of the Iberian peninsula.
Travelling
the Silver Way
From
the Andalusian warmth of Seville to the cold waters of the Cantabrian
Sea, the ‘Ruta de la Plata’ is one of Spain’s great journeys
Looking
out there is nothing but the silvery grey sea, stretching to a
distant horizon; whilst above me, casting a huge shadow is a colossal
yet elegantly curved structure of concrete some eight metres above my
head. Immense in size and weight, yet somehow it is just suspended
there, framing a view of ever changing light.
I’m
standing beneath Eduardo Chillida’s modern sculpture ‘Elogio
del Horizonte’ (Eulogy
to the Horizon) on
Spain’s Cantabrian Coast. It’s a modern landmark in the historic
port of Gijón and this
moment of tranquillity, whilst admiring the view and this striking
sculpture, marks the end of my trip. A journey that took me through
some of Spain’s most beautiful scenery and remarkable UNESCO World
Heritage sites that punctuate the ancient ‘Ruta de la Plata’.
South
to North
It
started in Andalucía, as I began to follow
in the footsteps of the Romans that established a road that connected
the south of the peninsula at Seville through valleys, between
mountains and across plains to the Spanish northern coast here at
Gijón.
The ‘Silver Route’ is
one of Europe’s early trading and pilgrimage ways, linking the Bay
of Biscay in the north with the mighty Guadalquivir river in the
south. This historic way threads together some of Europe’s most
beautiful cities, pearls in the architectural and cultural history of
the Iberian peninsula.
Spain’s
‘Silver Route’ provides
a wonderful structure for a holiday of discovery; usually as a self
drive or fly/drive. Within a week to ten days one can see a great
deal, although many people revisit the route, discovering different
portions in greater detail. There are some iconic Parador Hotels
along the route, most in historically significant buildings, together
with both hip and quaint boutique hotels, making it easy to plan a
flexible itinerary.
Developed
over thousands of years, it is not exactly clear how the route got
its name. At first it was thought to be referring to the silver mined
in both Andalucía in the south, and also in Asturias in the north,
but now historians believe the name ‘plata’ evolved from a
corruption of the Arab name for paved or wide road.
Roman
Capital
The
journey from Andalucía’s capital Seville, through Zafra to the
former Roman Iberian capital city of Mérida is a pleasure by car;
the motorway is new and the scenery is of rolling countryside and oak
forests.
Almost
like an open-air Roman museum Mérida, the capital city of
Extremadura, offers surprises at every turn. I don’t think any
other city in Spain can boast so many Roman monuments. Walk out of a
small café and suddenly you will be confronted by a Roman temple,
and then a Roman Triumphal Arch. Then tucked around a corner from a
shabby apartment block you discover one of Europe’s finest Roman
Circus’. Yet, in my mind, the most impressive place is the Roman
Theatre that remains a remarkable centre piece to the city’s
contemporary arts and live music scene.
Fairytale
Citadels
The
next World Heritage City in the route is Cáceres, a little further
north. Here you find a
fairytale style walled city with fortified towers. The old town
combines Roman and Arab architecture with romantic Renaissance
churches and palaces; all remarkably intact.
Depending
on your schedule and available time, Trujillo is also worth a visit;
a stunning medieval town of aged sandstone buildings, cobbled streets
and a main square that’s a perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine
and soak up the atmosphere.
Having
arrived in the region of Castile & León, one is in the heart of
medieval Spain; a land of knights and conquerors. A modest extension
to the silver route will easily take you through some of the most
striking cities of the Iberian Peninsula. For example, Segovia is a
seductive mix of fantasy castle architecture, medieval streets and of
course that world famous Roman aqueduct.
Ávila
is built on a huge rock outcrop. It dominates the landscape like a
story book citadel. Some 88 towers punctuate the ancient walls
protecting a huge number of palaces and churches, as well as narrow
streets and the huge gothic, 800 year old cathedral. Considered to be
the first gothic cathedral in Spain, the building looks more like a
fortress than a church, with its battlements and sturdy towers.
Yet
most don’t come here for the architecture, but instead for the
region’s gourmet delicacy, ‘cochinillo asado’ or roast suckling
pig. The waiter brings it to your table on a huge platter and
theatrically divides and serves it with merely the edge of a plate,
as a demonstration of its tenderness.
Heading
on I reached Salamanca, one of Europe’s finest university cities; a
rich extravagant mix of Roman, Arab, Gothic, Baroque and ornate
Renaissance buildings and impressive squares that resonate with the
energy and vibrancy of a university city.
Cultural
Insight
As
you reach the end of the route, hopefully also having had time to
explore the Romanesque cities of Zamora & Astorga; the splendour
of Léon and the culture of Oviedo, one is truly intoxicated by all
the architecture and history of this great journey.
Yet
this extraordinary trip is more than just an architectural history
lesson; it’s a fascinating and inspiring insight into the diverse
cultures of Spain. From the passion of Andalucía to the kingdoms and
castles of medieval Iberia. Each region boasts a strong gastronomic
identity, from the tapas of Seville, the hearty stews and roast game
from the heart of Spain, to the seafood and fish of the north; all
complemented by distinct wines that reflect the regions.
Now
standing looking out at the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Sea,
reflecting on this great journey, it’s hard to believe that in such
a short time I’ve not only travelled the length of the Iberian
Peninsula, but I have also travelled through time, through the rich
historical landscape of Spain’s ancient cities and kingdoms.
.
Travelling
the Silver Way
From
the Andalusian warmth of Seville to the cold waters of the Cantabrian
Sea, the ‘Ruta de la Plata’ is one of Spain’s great journeys
Looking
out there is nothing but the silvery grey sea, stretching to a
distant horizon; whilst above me, casting a huge shadow is a colossal
yet elegantly curved structure of concrete some eight metres above my
head. Immense in size and weight, yet somehow it is just suspended
there, framing a view of ever changing light.
I’m
standing beneath Eduardo Chillida’s modern sculpture ‘Elogio
del Horizonte’ (Eulogy
to the Horizon) on
Spain’s Cantabrian Coast. It’s a modern landmark in the historic
port of Gijón and this
moment of tranquillity, whilst admiring the view and this striking
sculpture, marks the end of my trip. A journey that took me through
some of Spain’s most beautiful scenery and remarkable UNESCO World
Heritage sites that punctuate the ancient ‘Ruta de la Plata’.
South
to North
It
started in Andalucía, as I began to follow
in the footsteps of the Romans that established a road that connected
the south of the peninsula at Seville through valleys, between
mountains and across plains to the Spanish northern coast here at
Gijón.
The ‘Silver Route’ is
one of Europe’s early trading and pilgrimage ways, linking the Bay
of Biscay in the north with the mighty Guadalquivir river in the
south. This historic way threads together some of Europe’s most
beautiful cities, pearls in the architectural and cultural history of
the Iberian peninsula.
Spain’s
‘Silver Route’ provides
a wonderful structure for a holiday of discovery; usually as a self
drive or fly/drive. Within a week to ten days one can see a great
deal, although many people revisit the route, discovering different
portions in greater detail. There are some iconic Parador Hotels
along the route, most in historically significant buildings, together
with both hip and quaint boutique hotels, making it easy to plan a
flexible itinerary.
Developed
over thousands of years, it is not exactly clear how the route got
its name. At first it was thought to be referring to the silver mined
in both Andalucía in the south, and also in Asturias in the north,
but now historians believe the name ‘plata’ evolved from a
corruption of the Arab name for paved or wide road.
Roman
Capital
The
journey from Andalucía’s capital Seville, through Zafra to the
former Roman Iberian capital city of Mérida is a pleasure by car;
the motorway is new and the scenery is of rolling countryside and oak
forests.
Almost
like an open-air Roman museum Mérida, the capital city of
Extremadura, offers surprises at every turn. I don’t think any
other city in Spain can boast so many Roman monuments. Walk out of a
small café and suddenly you will be confronted by a Roman temple,
and then a Roman Triumphal Arch. Then tucked around a corner from a
shabby apartment block you discover one of Europe’s finest Roman
Circus’. Yet, in my mind, the most impressive place is the Roman
Theatre that remains a remarkable centre piece to the city’s
contemporary arts and live music scene.
Fairytale
Citadels
The
next World Heritage City in the route is Cáceres, a little further
north. Here you find a
fairytale style walled city with fortified towers. The old town
combines Roman and Arab architecture with romantic Renaissance
churches and palaces; all remarkably intact.
Depending
on your schedule and available time, Trujillo is also worth a visit;
a stunning medieval town of aged sandstone buildings, cobbled streets
and a main square that’s a perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine
and soak up the atmosphere.
Having
arrived in the region of Castile & León, one is in the heart of
medieval Spain; a land of knights and conquerors. A modest extension
to the silver route will easily take you through some of the most
striking cities of the Iberian Peninsula. For example, Segovia is a
seductive mix of fantasy castle architecture, medieval streets and of
course that world famous Roman aqueduct.
Ávila
is built on a huge rock outcrop. It dominates the landscape like a
story book citadel. Some 88 towers punctuate the ancient walls
protecting a huge number of palaces and churches, as well as narrow
streets and the huge gothic, 800 year old cathedral. Considered to be
the first gothic cathedral in Spain, the building looks more like a
fortress than a church, with its battlements and sturdy towers.
Yet
most don’t come here for the architecture, but instead for the
region’s gourmet delicacy, ‘cochinillo asado’ or roast suckling
pig. The waiter brings it to your table on a huge platter and
theatrically divides and serves it with merely the edge of a plate,
as a demonstration of its tenderness.
Heading
on I reached Salamanca, one of Europe’s finest university cities; a
rich extravagant mix of Roman, Arab, Gothic, Baroque and ornate
Renaissance buildings and impressive squares that resonate with the
energy and vibrancy of a university city.
Cultural
Insight
As
you reach the end of the route, hopefully also having had time to
explore the Romanesque cities of Zamora & Astorga; the splendour
of Léon and the culture of Oviedo, one is truly intoxicated by all
the architecture and history of this great journey.
Yet
this extraordinary trip is more than just an architectural history
lesson; it’s a fascinating and inspiring insight into the diverse
cultures of Spain. From the passion of Andalucía to the kingdoms and
castles of medieval Iberia. Each region boasts a strong gastronomic
identity, from the tapas of Seville, the hearty stews and roast game
from the heart of Spain, to the seafood and fish of the north; all
complemented by distinct wines that reflect the regions.
Now
standing looking out at the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Sea,
reflecting on this great journey, it’s hard to believe that in such
a short time I’ve not only travelled the length of the Iberian
Peninsula, but I have also travelled through time, through the rich
historical landscape of Spain’s ancient cities and kingdoms.
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